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The pistons were cleaned in a parts cleaner that uses a
non-caustic solution combined with 180 degree heat. I cooked them for about an
hour, and the carbon flaked right off.
Be sure to keep the rods, pistons, and pins together, don't let them get mixed up. I ordered new piston pin clips. Never reuse the old clips, no matter how good they look. Once you remove them, throw them out and order new ones. Oil the piston pins and insert the pins into the piston and rod top. When you insert the clips, be sure to rotate the pin clips so that the opening in the clips is pointing toward the top of the piston, away from the cutout in the bottom of the piston.
Problem: 
At
this point I discovered that the #3 connecting rod was slightly twisted.
This was caused by the piston in this cylinder hitting the exhaust valve when
the cam broke. I
ordered a new one with the same weight code (stamped into the connecting rod)
for $109.00. I felt like this was a fair price. I came complete with the
connecting rod cap and the 2 bolts.
I ordered the piston rings from Tims CBX. They were $25.00 a piston, and are a great fit. Be sure to apply a molybdenum disulfide grease to all bearing surfaces and the piston pins before assembly. I also brush the pistons with fresh motor oil, to help coat them for assembly.
It's not a bad idea to run a hone through the bore just to clean it up. Just a few strokes should do. Install the pistons with the arrows facing forward, and be sure that you put them back into the same bore that they came out of. Like I said before, it's much easier to slide the pistons into the cylinder head first, then place the entire cylinder head assembly onto the lower case. Turn the case upside-down, then attach the rods to the crankshaft and torque them up. Some tape around the rod cap threads will protect the crankshaft while you position the rods into position on the crank.
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NOTE: When installing the bearings, do not grease the back side! Just the contact surface. Grease on the back of the bearing can cause them to spin. |
