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.To
do anything to the bottom end, the case must be split in half. This was pretty easy
to do. If all the bolts are out, it will open right up. If it doesn't, you
missed a bolt! Don't force it!
Be sure the engine is upside down when splitting it. Open the
oil pan and remove the oil pump. If you want to be safe, disassemble the oil
pump. It's really easy, and I found some pretty bad scoring on the rotors
inside. I decided to replace it, and found a really nice one on 
. It cost me
$17.50! Beats the $150.00
price I was quoted for a new one!
As I split the case, I found it very clean. I guess the oil had been regularly changed. There was a slight trace of metallic particles from the top end failure, but nothing unusual or excessive. That's a good sign!.
Next is to pull the transmission out. Inspect all the gears for abnormal wear. Check the grooves for the shift forks, and clean it up.
The main and rod bearings are easy to replace. No tricks there. While replacing the rod bearings, I noticed that the number 3 connecting rod was slightly twisted. A minor setback. I ordered a new rod from Midwest Action Cycle for $109.00. Not too terrible, but this led me to believe that there was more damage than just the cam and valve.
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It's important to replace the rubber o-ring on each side of the primary chain tensioner. This will assure proper tension on the primary chain, and keep it quiet. It's also a good time to replace all rubber seals and o-rings. As I do the engine, I'll replace every rubber o-ring and seal that I can find. All are pretty hard from the combination of temperature and age. Here's where the microfiche helps. You can look up all the part numbers, which makes phone ordering easy. Although, with the Honda seal kit, all the o-rings and gaskets are there. |
Once ready to close it up, remove the old case sealant and apply a very thin bead of Hondabond. This stuff is great. Just spread it onto one half, let it set a minute, then fit the halves together and tighten it up. Be sure the trans and shift forks are in first gear, and the lower half will mate right up with the upper.
Suggestions:
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*I did learn one trick when I put the case together. Instead of trying to get the cylinder head on after the case is closed, I put the cylinder head, with pistons and rods already inserted , into position on the top half with the case split. This way you can connect the rods to the crank like you would a car from the inside. I wasn't too crazy about trying to do it as the manual states. It looked like too much trouble trying to work the cylinder head down over the six pistons with the case closed. This method worked great. Tape up the connecting rod threads so you don't damage the crankshaft. |
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*ALSO, use Locktite or any other brand thread locking compound on all internal engine nuts and bolts. The last thing you need is to have a bolt loose in the crankcase. |
I found that money is no excuse for a crappy torque wrench. I tried to get off cheap and bought a beam style wrench. I learned the hard way. As I torqued the case bolts to the book value, I stripped the threads right out of the aluminum block on one main crank bolt. Time to open it up again! I took it to a local bike shop for a thread insert. A helicoil was inserted, but would not take. A bubble in the aluminum casting after it was drilled out kept making the helicoil miss a thread!! I was in a panic. I didn't plan on a new case.
I found a solid threaded insert that, unlike a helicoil, which is like a spring, was solid and would follow the threads, and inserted it with no problem. Back in business...whew! Off to the store to return the torque wrench and buy a dial type torque wrench. What a difference. BTW, always use an anti seize compound on all external case bolts. It helps get an accurate torque, and keeps corrosion from seizing the bolts.
